As they originated in Northern Europe - central France Faverolles are a hardy breed. Thereby they do well ranging, the large ones do not do well when penned for long periods. The bantams are more adaptable.

Faverolles basic needs

1 housing - foxproof, well ventilated and weatherproof.
2 space to roam
3 area to dust
4 fresh water
5 good quality feed and fresh green stuff
6 shelter from wind and rain

Living accommodation
Large Faverolles need a large space. Room to spread their wings and to roam. Ideal conditions are a grass area with a fox proof hen house. They need a rail to roost, but not a high one as they are heavy birds whose feet can become damaged by constant jumping from great height. So a rail 18 inches to 24 inches high is quite sufficient. All poultry dislike the wind and rain, so shelters as well as their henhouses are useful. A corregated shelter a couple of feet high, perhaps against the hen house makes a good one. It also provides a area to dust lessening the possibility of dusty crater appearing in the runs. If it is not possible to have them ranging but confined in a pen or coop they will need to be moved to new areas occasionally. In exposed areas poultry are often put into large sheds for winter, these must have adequate ventilation and light.
Litter for poultry is normally shavings or straw - whichever is used it needs to be cleaned out regularly. It must never be left in the houses wet - a sure path to unhealthy birds. If straw is used wheat straw is preferably as barley straw has stiff and sharp pieces off the husks which can stick in the birds throat or get up their nostrils. Never use hay as it is more likely that mould spores may be present which are very harmful to the respiratory system.
Similar conditions are needed for the bantams.

Housing for broodies and chicks.
Broodies need to be separated from the others into a coop with a run in a sheltered spot. A broody will, probably come off the nest just once a day probably for food and water. Her run will need to be kept clean and covered if the weather is wet.

Feeding your Faverolles - this is just a guide
Faverolles are not a greedy breed. Nonetheless the large ones need adequate provisions. A rough guide is an upturned handful per large bird and a smaller handful for the bantams twice a day.
Winter feeding - layers pellets in the morning and corn/wheat in the afternoon. Grain is fed in the afternoon as it helps keep their body temperature up during the night. Water can be a problem during severe cold. Make sure there is unfrozen water when having there morning feed. Thaw water out before closing them up and place drinkers in the henhouse, possibly covered too. Theories about household scraps vary - cooked potatoes help keep weight on during winter. Poultry love meat - raw and cooked. If household food is used remember that they cannot tolerate salt therefore be very careful about what is put in the chicken bucket. Greens stuff at all times.
Spring feeding - breeding season. Assuming that the Faverolles are expected to breed their diet needs to be changed accordingly. If possible buy Breeders Pellets and mix these with the layers pellets for a couple of weeks before feeding just breeders. Most good corn merchants or mills have breeders pellets. When the breeding season is over reintroduce the layers feed. During this time feed corn as usual. Green stuff at all times.

Feeding young stock
Broodies and chicks. When the chicks hatch put some corn and chick crumbs within reach of the hen and water - she will need water most. Not in a container which the chicks could drown in. When the chicks emerge outside of the coop have adlib chick crumbs and corn. The hen will crack the grain for the chicks.
Chicks from 7 to 9 weeks can be introduced to growers pellets or meal mixed with chick
crumbs for a week or so. These growers can be fed until 18 to 20 weeks after which layers can be used.
Large birds are slower maturing so they can be fed the chick crumbs and growers feed slightly longer than the bantams.

Follow the instructions of the incubator. Have a brooder warmed up and ready for the newly hatched chicks. They need a temperature of at least 75F (23.9C). brooder lamps are available. Two 40 watt bulbs - pink if possible as the light is less harsh, are adequate in a 20"+ x 36"+ approx. a divider can be inserted to reduce the size for a day or so if the chicks are huddled underneath the light and are obviously not warm enough. The surface must not be smooth. Either a thin layer of shavings or an old piece of clean blanket is suitable. Water and chick crumbs in flat containers for the first day or so to avoid drowning. Do not allow the chick crumbs to become wet, that can be harmful to the little chicks. Space and shavings can be increased as the chicks grow. Overcrowding can result in deaths and disease. Weak and sickly chicks need removing. They will get knocked about by their healthy siblings and have a very miserable time. Clean the litter out often.

As the chicks develop their feathers and become more active the heat can be reduced. At around six or seven weeks they can be moved to a warm draughtproof and well lit shed with clean litter. If the weather is cold delay putting them outside. If they are with other adult birds net off an are for them to range in. Should they be are isolated they may need overhead protection from magpies, crows, hawks and suchlike. These predators are a real threat. The presence of adult birds may deter them, but hawks are very fast and fearless.
For early chicks a greenhouse on a sunny day is a good place to begin 'hardening them off'. This involves rather more work as they have to be brought back in before evening.
If facilities are available separate the pullets and cockerels after 12/14 weeks.


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